Sew a hidden zipper

Zippers were something I avoided for a long time because I never managed to get them even. But with this method of sewing an invisible zipper, it is difficult to fail.
In this guide, I have used the Festfin klänning pattern where I want a zipper on the back.

You will need:

• Zipper, preferably an invisible/concealed type (it has the teeth on the wrong side)
• Zipper foot or another narrow zipper foot
• Tape measure

You can click on the images to make them larger.

On this pattern, the pattern piece is placed against the folded edge. I then add a seam allowance where it should actually be against the folded edge and cut it out so that I get two mirror-image parts.

Place the pattern pieces right sides together, pin, and sew together with a straight stitch using the seam allowance you added. The piece will now be as if I had cut it against the folded edge, with the exception that I have a seam right in the middle of the back.

You can use long, slightly looser stitches.

Press the seam open and place the zipper so that the teeth end up right on the center of the seam. The zipper runner should be facing the wrong side. Pin the zipper in place.

Sew the zipper in place as close to the teeth as you can. You sew it in place on both sides of the teeth.

Turn the garment to the right side and now unpick the center seam. That is the seam you sewed in the first step.

You have now sewn an invisible zipper.