Sew neckbindig

In this guide, the method for sewing a neckband to conceal the seam allowance in the neckline is described.
I have used the Kofta pattern in this description.

As material is needed

• A 25–30 mm wide strip of fabric. You can also use bias tape.

You can click on the images in the description to make them larger.

Start by pinning the collar/neck cuff/hood according to the instructions on your pattern.
You can also apply this description after you have already sewn the collar/cuff/hood in place, but I prefer to do this in one step.

Then, measure how long it is from shoulder seam to shoulder seam on the back piece. In this case, it is 19 cm. If you want the neckband around the entire neckline seam, you measure that entire length instead.

I am sewing with a fabric that stretches, so I have therefore chosen a piece of cotton jersey to be my neckband. To ensure the result doesn't get 'bubbly' (stretched out/wavy), I cut the neckband to exactly the same length as the neck opening (19 cm).

If you are sewing with a stable/non-stretch fabric, such as a cotton shirt, add 1 cm to each short end. In this case, the strip would then be 21 cm.

I am using a 7 mm seam allowance and therefore make my neckband 25 mm wide. If you use a 1 cm seam allowance, you can make the strip 3 cm wide.

Pin the neckband in place between the shoulder seams (or around the entire neckline if you chose that option) so that the neckband is placed right sides together with the back piece, with the cuff/collar/hood sandwiched in between. Make sure the neckband is folded in towards the wrong side by 1 cm on each short end. Sew together.

Fold the neckband over the seam allowance and then in under the seam allowance. Pin it in place and make sure it is smooth on the back piece so you don't get any tucks or bubbles when you sew the binding in place.

Sew a topstitch along the bottom edge of the neckband. That is, the edge that is folded inward.

If you are sewing stretchy material and you have chosen to make the neckband around the entire neck, choose a small zigzag stitch so that the seam does not pop when putting on the garment. Otherwise, you can sew with a straight stitch and long stitches.

Check that the seam looks good on the right side of the back piece.